Une Délégation Anglaise

Twelve months ago I was heading out to my first Fédération Française des Supporters de Rugby (F.F.S.R.) congress. Our professional team had recently been disbanded and I was very unsure of our future. Stepping into the unknown I travelled deep in to eastern France to spend a weekend with a large number of supporters from clubs across the Gallic nation. My main goal was to discover how things operated in the F.F.S.R., with a view to establishing a similar organisation back here. There were a few familiar faces from various European encounters, but most people were new to me.

The 2024 congress was being hosted by Les Amis du Rugby – the main Castres Olympique supporters’ club. I had sought permission to return for another fact-finding mission, and was pleased to be accepted and delighted with the very positive responses I received from the organisers.

This time around I had a much better idea of what was ahead, and was really looking forward to it. In Mâcon the group from Castres were very much the party animals of the weekend, so I had high hopes for the 2024 congress. I’d also persuaded a couple of others to come along with me; David Harrington of Bath and Phil Gibson from Harlequins, both of whom were keen to learn about the F.F.S.R. and had been very positive about setting up our own union of supporters’ clubs.

Thursday 4th July – Toulouse

The three of us met at Gatwick, where we enjoyed a swift drink and an evening meal before taking the short EasyJet flight to Toulouse-Blagnac. A taxi whisked us from the airport, past the Stade Toulouse stadium and across town to the basic but comfortable ibis budget on the ring road. A nightcap was definitely needed and so we headed out in search of refreshment.

We came frighteningly close to losing a third of our party as a police car travelling well in excess of 100km/h appeared from nowhere, missing one of our group by millimetres. A refreshing pint in O’Briens was needed to calm the nerves, followed by a second just to be sure.

Friday 5th July – Castres

The day started with a light self-service breakfast at the hotel, followed by a short walk along the Canal du Midi to Matabiau station. Our train was waiting for us and after travelling through some very pretty countryside we arrived at the sleepy station of Castres, a marked and refreshing contrast to the bustling urban Toulouse that we had left behind an hour earlier.

The temperature had risen somewhat and we enjoyed the short walk into town bathed in glorious Languedoc sunshine.

Our first port of call was not a bar, but the Office du Tourisme where a helpful lady assisted us in getting oriented for our weekend stay. We had an hour or so to kill before lunch, so headed to the main square for a light drink to rehydrate.

I had arranged to meet some of the F.F.S.R. committee for lunch. Experience told me that they know the best places to eat, and this was no exception. Just over the river we found them in La Part des Anges, a delightful small restaurant recommended in the Michelin Guide. After a few introductions we enjoyed a relaxed conversation over a delicious three course meal for an incredibly reasonable price. The French concept of the menu du jour worked well for us.

Crossing back across Pont Neuf, the three of us made our way to our home for the weekend, a spacious Airbnb on the ground floor of the curious 17th century Hôtel Jean Oulès de Nayrac. The building had previously been owned by Société Générale since 1920 and traces of the former occupant were evident in the apartment, with a couple of very large safes, and the remains of a strongroom doorway. Centrally positioned and, coincidentally, just across the street from an Irish bar, the location of our accommodation was perfect for our short stay in Castres.

All of the business of the congress was being held at the Stade Pierre-Fabre, Castres Olympique’s home ground, a 15 minute walk from the town centre. This charming, purpose built rugby stadium holds just over 12,000 mostly home supporters, one of the smallest in the league. For reasons we can’t fathom, the French rarely travel in numbers to away games in the Top 14.

Arriving at the stadium we were welcomed by the reception committee and presented with our delegate badges, wristbands and a selection of leaflets about the local area, along with a gift of Avène hand cream and shampoo, provided the club’s main sponsor, Pierre-Fabre.

Over the course of the next hour or so delegates arrived from all over the country, representing their supporters clubs from across the Top 14, Pro D2 and Nationale. There was a tangible party atmosphere with good friends reuniting for their annual weekend celebrating the rugby family. Plenty of handshakes, hugs and kisses ensued as each new group arrived at the stadium. It was delightful to meet up with so many that I had got to know, albeit briefly, at the last congress.

Once everyone had arrived and registered, we headed into the bar to meet the club’s mascot, Captain CO and for some more singing. A little later we repaired across the driveway to the Bodéga du Stade, a purpose built clubhouse where the ceiling was adorned with flags of the Top 14. Large screen TVs were on all four walls, and the lighting was very, very blue.

The two hundred or so delegates sat down at several long tables where we were served with our next repas. Carrot, beetroot and tomatoes to start, followed by a paella adorned with chicken and prawns, washed down with local wines. Camembert and an apple flan completed the meal. The very convivial evening was interspersed with plenty of talking, laughter, singing and several conga lines.

Saturday 6th July – Conference and Gala

The mornings proceedings began early. An 8am start at the stadium bar with plenty of croissants, pains au chocolat and cake, together with plenty of strong dark coffee to prepare us for the upcoming conference.

We were ushered upstairs to the concourse for the business of the weekend, the main conference. The meeting included reports from the president, treasurer and other members of the F.F.S.R. committee, as well as a presentation and Q&A from a representative of the Ligue nationale de rugby (LNR) which regulates and manages Top 14 and Pro D2. Once again they reported very successful match attendance figures, with averages of over 15,000 at every Top 14 game and over 5,500 for Pro D2.

This year the F.F.S.R. has been working with environmental charity Pachamama Madagascar, fronted by ex-French captain Jean-François Tordo (who led the team to their Five Nations success in 1993). Jeff, as he prefers to be called, was there to tell us all about their work, including replanting hundreds of thousands of trees to help preserve the environment of Madagascar.

Following the conference we headed onto the main stand for the official 2024 congress photo. Then over to the Bodéga for a lunch of mixed, charcuterie, a pork casserole with rice, then some cheese, and finished with a slice of ice cream. More local wine accompanied the meal.

The congress raffle was held during the lunch. This helps to fund the weekend, and each delegation donates at least one item, meaning that there are umpteen prizes and the draw takes forever to complete. We each had provided a shirt from our respective English clubs, and these were very well received by the winners.

Afterwards there was a choice of activities for the afternoon. Some went to play golf or visit a park, while others were taken on a guided tour of the city. As the weather was somewhat inclement, we decided that retiring to the pub to watch the Boks play Ireland was a better option.

The evening started with a gathering in the main stadium bar, with everyone dressed in slightly more formal attire, generally with a nod to their club colours. We soon returned to the Bodéga for a delicious five course gala meal. Live entertainment was provided by Castres supporter and ex-gendarme, Christophe Delbard, who performed his music while walking around the room, climbing on tables and leading the dancing.

The Argentina – France match was shown live on the large TVs, which provided additional entertainment and a win for Les Blues added to the party atmosphere. The singing and dancing carried on long into the night.

Sunday 7th July – Wine tasting and the long journey home

After checking out from our Airbnb, we set off for another early start at the Stade Pierre-Fabre. The sunny weather had returned and we enjoyed a selection of French pastries and cake, along with coffee, beside the Castres Olympique pitch, which was being watered by the automated irrigation system.

A new local winery had set up in the stadium entrance and they invited us to taste their wines, to give feedback on their produce. This helped to pass the time while the newly re-elected F.F.S.R. committee had their final meeting of the weekend. Their prime task was to decide the venue for the 2025 congress. Eventually they emerged from their committee room and President Franck Lemann was pleased to announce that next summer the congress will be held in Toulon, with the 2026 event in Strasbourg. Two dates that are now firmly entered in my diary.

A final lunch ensued. More charcuterie, then gammon and roast potatoes, followed by a portion of cheese and some fruit flan to finish. It was then time to say our goodbyes and head off home. Our train back to Toulouse wasn’t until the evening, so we made our way back to the central square in Castres for a relaxing drink in the afternoon sun. A few of the other delegations passed through the square, many of them preparing for a long road or rail journey back to Paris, Grenoble or other parts of France.

On arrival at Matabiau station in Toulouse, we caught the shuttle bus to the airport. It was the last day of the French elections, and the city was full of police preparing for the expected trouble which thankfully never transpired. Airport security and passport formalities were quick and efficient, but due to problems earlier in the day, our 10pm flight had been delayed for a smidge under two hours, resulting in a very late arrival back in Gatwick. A small price to pay for what had been a fantastic and very enjoyable weekend.

In summary

In addition to being a very enjoyable weekend, the F.F.S.R. annual congress is a great networking event that greatly strengthens the rugby family across France. The majority of clubs are represented, and although they don’t have many away supporters, those that do travel can be assured of a warm welcome wherever they go. The weekend has further inspired us in our aim of creating a similar organisation back home. Watch this space.

European matches are probably a long way off for us, but if you are travelling to watch any of the regions playing in France, perhaps Castres – Munster in December, or La Rochelle – Leinster in January, or if you are visiting any French club, then let us know and we’ll get you in touch with the local supporters who will be very glad to welcome you to their club.

A final thank-you

Our hosts for the weekend, Les Amis du Rugby, were amazing. They were there smiling to greet us early each morning, and worked tirelessly throughout the long days ensuring that we were fed, watered and entertained at every stage. All with a cheerful smile and a warm welcome. The smooth running of the entire event is a testament to their organisation, planning and dedication. Thank-you. Toulon and Strasbourg have a tough act to follow.

Duncan Kendall, vice chair, London Irish Supporters Club